Do All Moisturisers Work the Same Way?

Think your moisturiser is doing its job? Groundbreaking research reveals not all formulas are created equal – and some might even weaken your skin barrier over time. Here’s what really works: 

The Eye-Opening Findings 

Using laser-powered skin scanners (confocal Raman spectroscopy), scientists tested 3 moisturisers for 3 weeks and discovered: 

• Only the niacinamide formula thickened the protective outer layer (stratum corneum) 

• Hydration lasted longer – effects persisted even after stopping use 

• Other moisturisers showed no lasting improvements 

Why Niacinamide Wins 

This powerhouse ingredient: 

1. Boosts skin’s water retention 

2. Strengthens the skin barrier (fewer irritants get in) 

3. Works long-term – like a “fitness plan” for your skin 

Pro Tip: 
"A good moisturiser shouldn’t just feel nice – it should rebuild your skin’s defenses." 

MEASURING THE EFFECTS OF TOPICAL MOISTURISERS ON CHANGES IN STRATUM CORNEUM THICKNESS, WATER GRADIENTS AND HYDRATION IN VIVO

J.M. Crowther, A. Sieg,¹  P. Blenkiron, C. Marcott,² P.J. Matts, J.R. Kaczvinsky,³ A.V. Rawlings⁴ 

BACKGROUND

Moisturisers are commonly used to treat dry skin, impacting the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, which is vital for skin barrier function.  While moisturisers improve skin hydration, some have been found to negatively affect skin barrier function.  Few studies, however, have comprehensively investigated the effects of long-term moisturiser use on stratum corneum thickness in relation to skin hydration and barrier function. 

OBJECTIVE

To validate the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) to measure stratum corneum thickness and to investigate the short- and long-term effects of moisturisers on skin barrier function, specifically stratum corneum thickness, water gradients, and hydration. 

METHOD

Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) and optical coherence tomography (OCT) were used.   

First, CRS was validated as a technique for measuring stratum corneum thickness by comparing its performance with optical coherence tomography (OCT).  

Following validation, CRS was used to measure the long-term effects (over a 3-week period) of three commercially available moisturisers on stratum corneum thickness and water gradients.   

Total skin water content, as measured by CRS, was compared to values obtained by capacitance measurement (Corneometer TM). 

RESULTS

The study found that only moisturiser containing niacinamide, significantly increased stratum corneum thickness and hydration as measured by CRS after two weeks, with the effects lasting even after a one-week regression period. This suggests that moisturiser composition, specifically the presence of niacinamide, plays a crucial role in influencing stratum corneum properties and hydration over time. 

CONCLUSION

This study validates CRS as a valuable tool for measuring SC thickness and studying the long-term effects of moisturisers on skin hydration. It highlights that not all moisturisers are equal in their efficacy and that certain ingredients, like niacinamide, can improve skin hydration and thickness, potentially leading to healthier skin barrier function over time. 

Click here to read the full study >

CONFLICT OF INTEREST STATEMENT 

 J.M.C., A.S., P.B., C.M., J.K. and P.J.M. are employees of Procter and Gamble who funded this study. A.V.R. is a consultant to Procter and Gamble. 

Procter & Gamble Technical Centres Ltd., Rusham Park, Whitehall Lane, Egham, Surrey, TW20 9NW, U.K.  

AUTHOR AFFILIATIONS

¹ Renal Solutions, Baxter R&D Nivelles, 7 Rue du Progrès, B-1400 Nivelles, Belgium.  
² Light Solutions LLC, P.O. Box 81436, Athens, GA 30608-1486, U.S.A.  
³ The Procter and Gamble Company, Sharon Woods Technical Centre, Cincinnati, OH 45241, U.S.A.  
⁴ AVR Consulting Ltd., Northwich, Cheshire, U.K.