Ever slather on a moisturiser and wonder—is this actually doing anything? The truth is, skincare magic happens when key ingredients dive beneath the surface. But how do we know if they’re absorbing properly—and safely? Science has the answers!
Here’s the breakdown:
The Study: Scientists reviewed different ways we test skincare absorption—from lab-grown skin to high-tech tracking—to separate fact from hype.
The Insight: Not all ingredients penetrate the same way. Your skin is unique, and absorption isn’t one-size-fits-all.
The Takeaway: Better testing = better products. The future of skincare is precision—so what you put on your skin truly works for you.
Because when science evolves, so does your glow.
Want the details? Dive into the research!
Research Progress on Evaluating the Effectiveness and Safety of Transdermal Absorption of Cosmetics
Meixuan Wang 1, Lu Zhang 2, Linxin Zheng 1, Jiayuan Shi, Hongxin Gao 3, Congfen He 1, Liya Song 1.
BACKGROUND
The application of chemical compounds, traditional Chinese medicine, and cosmetics to the skin relies on their ability to exert effects within specific skin layers, which is primarily determined by the process of transdermal absorption.
Transdermal absorption in cosmetics refers to the mechanism by which active or functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations interact with the skin's surface or penetrate deeper layers, such as the epidermis and dermis, where they accumulate and perform their intended functions. Understanding this process is crucial for evaluating how various components traverse the skin barrier, thereby enabling the assessment of cosmetic efficacy and safety.
OBJECTIVE
This review aims to systematically summarise the research progress in evaluating the effectiveness and safety of transdermal absorption in cosmetics by analysing different evaluation methods' classification, suitability, and regulations.
METHOD
This study reviews both in vitro and in vivo methods for evaluating transdermal absorption of cosmetics.
In vitro methods typically use excised human or animal skin or artificial membranes.
In vivo approaches can be further categorised into two subtypes: experiments conducted on live subjects (in vivo) and those performed on excised skin structures (ex vivo).
Additionally, the study reviews various regulations and guidelines for transdermal absorption testing from organisations like the OECD, SCCS, and others.
RESULTS
Various in vitro and in vivo methods, including diffusion cells, artificial membranes (like Skin-PAMPA), along with advanced detection technologies like tape stripping, microdialysis, and spectroscopy, provide valuable insights into the transdermal absorption of cosmetic ingredients.
However, challenges remain in replicating the complexity of the skin's structure and accounting for variations in absorption rates across different skin types.
CONCLUSION
The study suggests focusing on developing more accurate in vitro skin models and more sensitive detection techniques to improve assessment methodologies and calls for innovation in instruments that allow for real-time monitoring of dynamic transdermal absorption.
Conflict of interest:
Author Lu Zhang was employed by the company P&G Singapore Innovation Center (SgIC), Hongxin Gao was employed by the company Procter & Gamble Technology (Beijing) Co., Ltd. The remaining authors declare that the research was conducted in the absence of any commercial or financial relationships that could be construed as a potential conflict of interest.
Author affiliations:
1 Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development, School of Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China;
2 P&G Singapore Innovation Center (SgIC), 70 Biopolis Street, Singapore 138547, Singapore;
3 Procter & Gamble Technology (Beijing) Co., Ltd., Beijing 101312, China.
