Dry skin isn’t just a surface issue—it’s a self-perpetuating cycle rooted in your skin’s microscopic structure. Groundbreaking research reveals that when your stratum corneum (your skin’s protective outer layer) loses too much water, it becomes brittle, sparking a chain reaction:
Skin barrier breakdown → Micro-inflammation → Faster moisture loss → Even drier, tighter skin
The good news? This cycle can be broken.
Scientists now know that targeted moisturisers—especially those with occlusives (like ceramides), humectants and emollients (including glycerine and petrolatum)—can help reset your skin’s hydration at a molecular level.
The Science Behind Dry Skin & How to Fix It
Your skin starts to struggle when its water content drops below 10-15%
Key moisturising ingredients (like niacinamide) can help replenish and lock in hydration
Consistency is key: Daily care prevents the cycle from restarting
Pro Tip from Researchers:
Consistent use of barrier-supporting moisturisers isn’t just cosmetic—it’s biologically proven to interrupt the dry skin cycle before it begins.
Stratum Corneum Moisturization at the Molecular Level: An Update in Relation to the Dry Skin Cycle
Anthony V. Rawlings PhD, Paul J. Matts PhD
BACKGROUND
“Stratum Corneum Moisturization At The Molecular Level” [1] was published over a decade ago to review what was known about the biology of a common cosmetic problem called ”dry skin”.
At the same time Warner and Lilly [2] in 1994 published “The correlation of water content with ultrastructure in the stratum corneum” and demonstrated for the first time the precise location of the reduced water content of the skin in dry skin conditions, namely the outermost layers of the stratum corneum (SC).
These key publications described the current state of the art of dry skin knowledge. Since then significant advances have been made in our understanding of the pathophysiology of dry skin.
OBJECTIVE
To review the latest understanding of the mechanisms involved in dry skin and how they are disturbed, with a particular emphasis on the micro-inflammatory state and the concept of a dry skin cycle.
METHOD
Previous research and key publications about the biology of dry skin and the pathophysiology behind this condition were reviewed.
It utilises electron microscopy techniques, lipid analysis, and water content analysis to examine the structure and function of the stratum corneum.
The study focuses on understanding the mechanisms that contribute to dry skin, including changes in lipid composition, corneodesmosome degradation, and NMF levels.
RESULTS
The reduced water content in the outermost layers of the stratum corneum is a key factor in dry skin conditions. Specifically, when the water content falls below a certain threshold, the stratum corneum becomes dysfunctional and brittle, leading to the characteristic symptoms of dry skin.
CONCLUSION
Dry skin is a cyclical condition that requires intervention to break the cycle of dryness and barrier dysfunction.
Maintaining a healthy skin barrier is crucial for preventing and treating dry skin. This can be achieved by using moisturising products that support barrier function, such as those containing humectants, occlusives, and emollients.
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