Do wrinkle creams work? Do anti-ageing creams really reduce wrinkles?

When it comes to anti-ageing we want a beauty cream that truly works. And why not? We all want to look the best version of ourselves. But are anti-ageing creams too good to be true, or do they really work?

We all want to help get rid ourselves of uneven skin tone, frown lines, dry skin on the face, and eye wrinkles, but for noticeable results the effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams actually depends on the ingredients it contains.

Olay’s largest ever clinical study, known as the Multi-decade and Ethnicity study (MDE) – was commissioned to transform our understanding of ageing – and it discovered that some fortunate women (known as ‘exceptional skin agers’) have younger-looking skin. Olay wanted to understand the reasons why this was. Working with a personal genetics company, the data of 150,000 women was analysed to find out whether younger-looking skin is down to genetics or how you treat your skin. They revealed that whilst some 8% of us are lucky enough to be ‘exceptional skin agers’ (with a skin age at least ten years or younger than their actual age), this is not primarily down to the genes we are born with and doesn’t mean that with the right care and lifestyle choices, others can’t have ageless skin providing they look after it. Let’s take a look at the different active ingredients within anti-ageing creams and explain why they work:

HOW ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN ANTI-WRINKLE CREAMS WORK

Common ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams and their benefits include:

• Retinol: Derived from vitamin A, retinoids increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production [1], and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles [2].
  We recommend: Olay Retinol 24 Night Cream

• Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful hydrating ingredient that plumps the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and providing a smoother, more youthful look [3].
  We recommend: Olay Hyaluronic Day cream

• Peptides: Short chains of amino acids that boost collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce the depth of wrinkles.
  We recommend: Collagen Peptide range

• Vitamin C: An antioxidant that brightens the skin [4], and protects against damage from free radicals and UV exposure [5].
  We recommend: Olay Vitamin C + AHA24 Day cream

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Exfoliants like glycolic acid and lactic acid that remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve skin texture and tone.
  We recommend: Olay Super Serum

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Reduces inflammation, improves skin elasticity, and enhances the skin barrier function, resulting in fewer wrinkles and a more even skin tone. [6]
  We recommend: Regenerist Niacinamide day cream

• Ceramides: Lipid molecules that help restore the skin's barrier, retain moisture, and protect against environmental damage, reducing the appearance of fine lines.

• Antioxidants (e.g., Green Tea, Vitamin E): Protect the skin from free radical damage, reduce inflammation, and support overall skin health.

These ingredients work synergistically to hydrate, stimulate collagen production, promote cell turnover, and protect against environmental damage, all of which contribute to reducing wrinkles and the visible signs of ageing.

ANTI-AGEING PROPERTIES OF WRINKLE CREAMS

Let’s take a look at the different properties within anti-ageing creams and explain why they work:

Moisturising

Creams work to plump up skin, making wrinkles appear smaller. Look for ingredients including glycerine and hyaluronic acid as they attract and bind water into the top layers of skin.

Why it works: Hydration is key to healthy looking skin. When skin is well hydrated it not only works better to protect us from external aggressors, but it also looks plumper and fuller and that makes fine lines and wrinkles appear smaller.

Exfoliation

Most women associate exfoliation with cleansing scrubs, but there are products containing chemical exfoliants that can have similar effect. These works by dissolving the bonds between the top surface cells on skin (e.g. AHAs and BHAs). Also look for ingredients with Niacinamide which works by speeding up the actual skin renewal process (exfoliation). Niacinamide has been shown to produce beneficial effects to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, uneven texture and hyperpigmentation, minimising the look of pores, spots and blotchiness and brighten skin sallowness.

Why It Works: When you remove dead skin cells, you reveal the skin underneath which is brighter and smoother. Over time and with continued use, skin tone will look more even & luminous.

Antioxidancy

Creams with antioxidants help to fight surface free radicals that can cause premature ageing. Look for formulas with known antioxidants such as vitamin C and E, and green tea extract.

Why It Works: Surface free radicals can damage DNA, cells and proteins (including collagen and elastin, which are important building blocks of skin), something that eventually could lead to wrinkles as these building blocks are weakened and/or destroyed. Antioxidants work to fight these highly reactive components from causing this damage, meaning they help combat the formation of wrinkles.

Sun-protection

Creams with broad-spectrum protection SPF help protect against UVA /UVB rays from the sun which are a leading cause of premature ageing.

Why it works: Using a moisturiser with broad-spectrum protection including Sun Protection Factor 15 on a daily basis helps protect against sun damage all year round and helps fight against the leading cause of premature ageing – 80% of ageing is due to the sun. Make sure to use other sun protection like wearing sunglasses, long sleeved shirts and avoiding the sun between the hours of 10 and 2pm.

The truth is, anti-ageing creams can’t magically make you look decades younger overnight, but they can work to help reduce the signs of ageing over time, or help delay them from forming. Learn when you should start using anti-ageing skin care products to achieve younger-looking skin.

References:

1. Griffiths CE, Russman AN, Majmudar G, Singer RS, Hamilton TA, Voorhees JJ. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). N Engl J Med. 1993 Aug 19;329(8):530-5. doi: 10.1056/NEJM199308193290803. PMID: 8336752. [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8336752/]

2. Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Quan T. Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Feb;39(1):56-65. doi: 10.1111/ics.12348. PubMed PMID: 27261203 [https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27261203/]

3. Bravo, B., Correia, P., Júnior, J., Sant'Anna, B., & Kerob, D. (2022). Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatologic Therapy, 35. [https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.15903]

4. Nusgens, B., Humbert, P., Rougier, A., Colige, A., Haftek, M., Lambert, C., Richard, A., Creidi, P., & Lapière, C. (2001). Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis.. The Journal of investigative dermatology, 116 6, 853-9 . [https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)41256-4/fulltext]

5. Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013 Apr;4(2):143-6. doi: 0.4103/2229-5178.110593. PMID: 23741676; PMCID: PMC3673383. [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/]

6. Bissett, D., Oblong, J., & Berge, C. (2006). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic surgery: official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 31 7 Pt 2, 860-5; discussion 865. [https://doi.org/10.1111/J.1524-4725.2005.31732]